Marina HELL Rey, PSA to Mariners

Welcome to sunny Marina Del Rey! HOORAY! We rejoiced. Well, Pajo and I figured out really quickly that we are now in a part of the California coast that discriminates against real mariners. If you don’t have a shiny million dollar yacht you’d better beware of the meddling authorities.  Think, Portlandia meets David Hasslehoff meets Miami Vice..

Unfortunately, we’ve had a hellish experience in Marina Del Rey.  We have been victims of a malicious act by Los Angeles County. An act which has left us with over $1400 worth of property damage and held us into a week long purgatory stuck in the harbor. This setback is equivalent to six months worth of cruising. It feels like we have been forced to pay every government entity in Los Angeles County after we landed.

Mariners are the lifeblood of the city we hail from (missing Seattle) and we foolishly expected at least a decent visit here in Los Angeles. What a very different experience here than other ports we’ve visited throughout the Puget Sound and down the west coast. I would strongly advise other cruisers to stop anywhere but here, but that’s exactly what LA County would want. Our only wish now is to share our experience because it is the reality of many of the  local boaters.

Here’s what went down.

For those of you who do not know, we are a Seattle couple sailing around the world on renewable energy. We left September 3, 2017 and began traveling down the coast to join the Baja HAHA rally to Mexico. We planned to stop in Marina del Rey to spend Ava’s birthday amongst a few of our family and friends that live nearby. We were also ready for warm showers and clean laundry after a week-long adventure in the beautiful and remote Channel Islands.

We had anchored Cinderella while cruising all over the Northwest, much of the time sans engine. Most recently, we cruised several of the beautiful Channel Islands. One of our anchorages was in Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel Island where we experienced several hours of 20 knot winds at anchor. We also anchored in Little Scorpion at Santa Cruz Island, a super rugged little anchorage surrounded by craggy volcanic rock formations in a tight space. Needless to say, after a week of putting our anchorage skills and equipment to the test,  we were feeling confident about our ground tackle and judgement on safely anchoring in well-known and designated areas.

The nice benefit of being back in cell range was that we could check our boat position at anytime via our Garmin InReach. The device sends a signal published to the internet realtime via satellite connection. It keeps our family and friends in the loop and they can watch our progress even if we cannot communicate directly with them. Once ashore, we can monitor our boat’s position at any point in time which we do regularly. Some would even say religiously, or obsessively like a new mother tunes into a baby monitor.

On October 18th at 12:34pm, while we were ashore at Ava’s Aunt’s house, two individuals from Baywatch Del Rey severed both of our anchor lines and stole Cinderella. Pajo watched as the Garmin InReach showed Cinderella en route back into Marina Del Rey Harbor at 4 knots. We quickly realized Cinderella was being towed into the harbor.

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We were watching our Garmin GPS tracker in real time, so we immediately called the Harbor Patrol to inquire. The person on the phone had no knowledge of our boat being towed until they looked out the window as it was arriving, meanwhile, we were already en route.

Our heads were spinning as we searched for our boat  amongst the many LA County offices. There’s US Coast Guard, LA County Beaches and Harbors, LA County Sheriff’s, LA County Fire Department and so on. All the possibilities were running through our heads. Pajo spotted Cindy’s mast, we had found the right person to speak to, maybe. We had a tense interaction with the officer there, both parties a little surprised and annoyed.

The officer did not have the answers we were seeking. He suggested maybe we were slipping anchor and Baywatch towed us to safety. But that’s not his division and that we would need to speak to Baywatch, even though they both fall under the County umbrella and share the same dock.

We said we were in a bit of shock because we had been watching our GPS tracker and knew the position of the boat the entire time.

The tone of the officer changed and he told us he will contact the Baywatch (the unit that towed us) and that we can come back at 4pm to discuss with them. Meanwhile, only Pajo is allowed to go to the boat to retrieve the registration documents and he notices the sad state of our boat Cinderella. He saw that both of our anchor lines were severed and that our boat had no fenders on the dock, a pile of lonely fenders sitting on the dock nearby.

Pajo took photos of the damage and came back to the officer requesting to file a complaint about the damage caused to our property. The officer quickly brushed us off saying that it wasn’t the Sheriff’s department that towed us, it was the Lifeguards, and so the lifeguards are the entity that we need to speak to about the incident.

We requested to file a police report or complaint about what had happened and he said that we could not do so through the Sheriff’s department and that we needed to come back at 4pm. We were very angry at this point and so a regroup was necessary. We decided to record conversations with everyone going forward as we suspected we were going to be royally messed with and wanted to protect ourselves. In Ava’s words, “they messed with the wrong boat..”

We returned at 4pm as scheduled and were told by the Sheriff’s office we were granted permission to leave without a tow fee. We returned to the vessel and tried calling Baywatch/Lifeguards to get a report of why we were towed. No response via telephone so we hailed them on our VHF radio while a few other officers showed up at the dock. We hit record on a phone in Pajo’s shirt pocket.

We wait 15 minutes for the lifeguards to meet us at the dock along with a few other officers from the Sheriff’s department. The lifeguards story unfolds. They said they saw our vessel slipping anchor in the anchorage zone outside of Dockweiler beach and that they intended to tow the boat back to safety in order to keep it from washing up on the beach. In order to tow the boat, they said they attempted to pull the anchors up but were unsuccessful “because the anchors were stuck.” Which was curious to us because we were watching the vessel’s location the whole time and saw that it had not moved.

They said because the anchors were stuck, they were forced to cut our anchor lines for the safety of our vessel. To which Ava replied “wow, the anchors must have really been stuck in there then.”

We mentioned that we have a GPS tracker on the boat that we can check in real time and therefor have reason to doubt that our boat was slipping anchor and that we intend to file a complaint with the County and recoup damages. We requested to see an official report about the incident and the latitude and longitude points of our boat when they arrived. They lifeguards said it was not part of their reporting process to take lat/long points and took our information saying they would send us a report. They insisted that our boat was “nearing the surfline” and that we were lucky that they “saved” our vessel. The lifeguards left and we were left with the officers at the dock.

Oddly, now we were free to go without paying a tow fee.  Step 1, get our house back, complete.

What now? Where can we got without an anchor? I guess these guys didn’t think of that. We explained to them that because of our loss of anchor equipment, we have no means of anchoring and no available moorage provided by the county and going anywhere would be tough now that we essentially have been left with an unsafe vessel.

The officers granted us a grace period of one night at the 4 hour dock until we could procure an anchor and sail out of MDR. We were told that they were doing us a big favor and not to “milk it.” (these are verbatim words that we recorded throughout our interactions with them!!).

We were beginning to discover that as long as we stayed in Marina del Rey, we would need to pay some entity of LA County at every turn.

It goes something like this… visiting boats are expected to anchor out near the breakwater or pay at the public guest docks at Burton W. Chace Park, which is managed by the Los Angeles County. But if there’s a small craft advisory issued (which there often is in Santa Ana windy season) the harbor is required to provide Harbor of Safe Refuge to all vessels. The only place to find Harbor of Safe Refuge is a first-come first-serve spot at the two 4 hour docks of Burton Chace Park, which also has a 7 day / month stay limit to guest docks. All the other slips in Marina del Rey are managed by the apartment/condo complexes attached to each one, which are leased from the County, all full and not taking any other boats.

So we were allowed to tie up at the 4 hour dock near the boat launch. After talking to many of the other local exiled boaters about our story, we heard countless similar stories of the local authorities damaging property like cutting anchor lines, including bolt cutters for chain and often times at weird hours, putting their lives at risk. While at our exile dock, we heard stories and even witnessed the local boaters being bullied numerous times. We were beginning to notice a dangerous pattern and that we were not the only ones experiencing malicious treatment and discrimination.

Shocked and angered, we got to work trying to move around our bank accounts in order to invest in a new anchoring system so that we no longer had to shuffle our boat around. We were also checking the weather praying for a small craft advisory so that we would be granted moorage somewhere.

We desperately wanted to avoid incurring extra costs with mooring at the park (pay LA County) or get towed (pay LA County) so we proceeded with rushing around getting the things we needed to get done. We also went forward with  filing our formal complaint. However we still hadn’t received a formal report from Baywatch about why they cut our anchors off our boat and towed our vessel.

We put several calls in to the Baywatch division, each person we spoke to not having any knowledge of the incident, it was always someone else who was working that day. After 24 hours of calls, we finally got an email response back from Baywatch with a few phone numbers and an attachment of the formal complaint form. Time for the mouse hunt!

Over the next two business days, we spent numerous phone calls inquiring with several different offices of LA County to procure the incident report including Los Angeles Fire Department and Boating and Waterways to obtain this thing called Nfirs. Basically any time there is a call into dispatch for an incident, it is logged through this system. Thanks to the Freedom of Information Act, we are entitled to this report, you just have to go on a wild goose chase to get it.

We were also waiting for our Mantus anchor that we had to order through West Marine which was slated to be delivered in 2 days. Or so we thought. Pajo was installing a new anchoring system and mounting a windlass to hoist the 200 feet of chain we had on hand so that we were ready for a new anchor.

These few days were very stressful for us. As long as there was a Small Craft Advisory issued, we could be on the 4 hour dock. If the SCA flag went down, we were on a timer. We had to stop what we were doing and figure out where the heck were going to go. Once we even sailed around the harbor for an hour to kill the time that we did not have.

Running out of options and time, we were desperate to stay put and finish projects and run errands we needed to accomplish to get out of town. We also were fortunate to catch Ava’s Aunt’s first big art show at the Beverly Hills Art Show.

Ava had an idea. What if we simply just call the Harbor Master, explain our situation and ask that they grant us ‘safe harbor’ until our anchor comes in at West Marine. Worth a shot.

So we called the Harbor Master, had another long conversation with someone there who was bewildered by our story but could not help us, that’s a different department.  She transferred us to another office where we again relayed the story to an Officer Sterlow who told us we were allowed to tie up to the 4 hour dock and to leave a note that he said it was ok to park there due to our circumstances.

Later that evening while we were celebrating Ava’s birthday at a friend’s condo overlooking the marina, we got a call saying that we had an hour to move our boat or it would be towed and that “Officer Sterlow is new and doesn’t know the rules.”

We called back and spoke to a Deputy at the Sheriff’s Dept. who had a lot of interesting things to say. He confirmed our hunch that we were indeed, not welcome in Marina del Rey. We expressed our frustration, that we believe our anchor lines were cut for no real reason other than to get rid of our boat.

We told him We are taking action to recoup damages based on our evidence via GPS tracker data. We explained that we are trying our best to leave but they have made it incredibly hard and confusing for us. We were still waiting on our anchor delivery and in the meantime we have no other safe option for moorage.

In one breath he assured us that we were welcome and that there are a lot of “problem boats” so they have to be tough with the laws and in the next breath asked why we wouldn’t just sail on out of here. Maybe he was confused. Any mariner knows, you don’t sail anywhere without some sort of ground tackle in case of emergencies. Again we were stuck in the Exile Dock purgatory.

The very next business day Monday October 23rd, Ava borrowed a friend’s car to drive the 23 miles (1 hour) to the LA County Fire Department, a fortress with gates and strict public access,luckily I am a white lady driving a beamer or I’d never been allowed in the gates. Meanwhile Pajo stayed on the boat fearful of getting towed or bullied by the authorities. Our options to see the official report from Baywatch were either 1.) mail in a request or 2.) go pick it up in person and pay the $15.00 fee, paid to our favorite folks, LA County. Fortunately for us, we have the right to this information because of the Freedom of Information Act and keep in mind it is our only job to get this document and get out of this place. I can’t imagine any other human having time, patience and resources that we had in order to simply stand up to the County. I couldn’t help but feel like I wanted justice for us, but also for the locals who go through this dance every single day.

Step 2, obtain the official report and compare to our Garmin Inreach GPS data. According to the report from Baywatch, on Oct. 18 at 12:34pm they “responded to an emergency radio transmission… concerning an approx. 36’ Sailboat ‘Cinderella’ dragging anchor and nearing the surfline off Dockweiler Tower 42..” In fact our GPS tracker position has us not moving until well after the report of the incident and clearly under tow moving at 4 knots back into Marina del Rey Harbor. According to our charts and GPS, we were anchored approx. 382 yards from the beach and well within the safe zone behind the surfline. Therefore we have reason to believe that our anchor lines were cut in maliciously, our vessel did not need saving. We are determined to recoup damages caused to our vessel by LA County and any costs incurred while seeking safe harbor.

In summary, the County Lifeguards towed our boat, the County Sheriff may request a dockage fee when the boat is towed to their dock, the County requires us to pick up or mail in a rewuest of the official report and to pay a fee, then once you are out of luck, the only moorage available is at the Burton Chace Park which is run by the County and requires a fee of $1.15/foot and limited to a seven-day max stay within a 30-day period. Seems interesting.

Which brings us to today, as we write this our frustration and anger is fueled by 105 degree heat as we sit paranoid and stuck as County prisoners on our boat. With help of a total stranger’s kindness, we found a slip to moor the boat for a few days until we get the anchor in (which by the way, has been delayed now twice from the West Marine warehouse). And even though we are safely docked, we are still fearful of being towed or bullied as it seems common place for boats they don’t like to see around.

We filed a formal written complaint with LA County so we’ll see how that goes. Until then, we are appalled by the treatment of the local boaters who live here and have been eye witness to several occurrences of discrimination. These local boaters have showed us nothing but kindness and generosity and even humour during our time at exile dock. They are like a little family and I do hope this account of our experience exposes the injustices that are going on here as well as awareness for the public, accountability and a full investigation into the LA County Baywatch and Sheriff’s blatant abuse of power.

Until then, we want to tell our story in hopes that this treatment and discrimination towards local and traveling boaters will ultimately be prevented in the future.

We were lucky to also meet some real mariners that are still left in this city but who are being pushed out due to the city’s waterfront development and more wealth coming in. Thanks to the kindness of total strangers, we were able to find a few nights of peace of mind until we could get our new anchor and leave.

Ironically enough, walking around the city we noticed the commodification of an age old maritime symbol – the ANCHOR plastered on every cutesy tee shirt and artisanal sandwich menu. Puke. We cannot wait to get out of Marina Hell Rey and get down to Mexico, lessons learned!

“Honestly, I would rather flog sails in the middle of the TSS lane than sit here another day in Marina Del Rey,” said Pajo.

Items we lost that are now sitting in the bottom of the ocean:

Three-Strand Rope/Chain Anchor Rode, Chain: 1/4” did. x 20’L, Rope: 1/2” dia x 300’L

$369.99

Three-Strand Rope/Chain Anchor Rode, Chain: 5/16” did. x 20’L, Rope: 5/8” dia x 300’L

$519.99

Primary anchor

Mantus Anchor – 35lb. Galvanized Steel Anchor

$309.99

Secondary anchor

Danforth Traditional Anchors 22 lb

$103.64

Total cost of damaged / loss of property:

$1,303.61 (before tax)

+ $94.51 (CA Sales tax)

= $1,398.12 total cost to replace our equipment

Here is a quick crash course reference for those thinking of stopping in Marina del Rey Harbor:

The US Coast Guard retired an anchorage in Marina del Rey in 2015 which means there is no longer a public anchorage within the harbor.

Burton Chace Park has several mooring options, pumpout and really beautiful greenscapes and barbeque stalls. It’s bustling with family gatherings and celebrations. The staff there is very helpful and we had a great experience with them. There is even free WiFi in the park and it is close to grocery stores and West Marine. We also had a very positive experience with the employees there.

According to the Burton W. Chace Park website, the rules are as follows: “These docks are available for use by vessels transiting the coast, those seeking refuge from inclement weather, or those laying in for minor repairs, replenishing supplies, or visiting. A portion of these docks – posted as ‘Park Dock, 4-hour maximum’ – may also be used by locally based vessels under a casual visitor status. Overnight and 4-hour guest docks are available for visitors on a first-come, first-served basis… with a seven-day maximum stay within a 30-day period… commences upon arrival.”

Boats who are anchored outside are allowed to tie up at two of the park’s designated 4 hour docks, once every 24 hours or while there is a small craft advisory issued.  The pumpout here was not working while we were there and you need a code to get into the gate and to use the facilities.

Do not expect to see a lot of sailors. In fact, expect jaw dropping multi-million dollar yachts and flashy power boat parties, and model photo shoots. On the back deck of every catamaran, gaudy orange plastic home depot buckets to keep the harbor seals away, we got the sense these boats rarely move.

Basically, if you must stop here, make it brief and do not anchor outside, these guys are the worst.

Building STORAGE! Part 1

If you remember from one of my first blogs, I spent some time insulating the hull and covering it with cheap flooring in order to stop my condensation problem. Guess what, its coming down. After talking to more boaters, and advancing my boat-building knowledge, I realize my attempt was simply a band-aid.

Over Thanksgiving, Ava and I sailed to Port Townsend to speak with Port Townsend Rigging about pulling our mast and doing a complete inspection of the rig prior to departure in September. After a day setback with the install of the Dickinson heater, we departed a day late and without reliable heat. I still had my portable propane heater, so we were able to warm up down below when were weren’t on watch, but it’s not quite the same as the warm, dry heat of the diesel burner.

What was supposed to be a pleasant 18 kt breeze behind us turned out to be more like 25 dead ahead. As luck would have it, rain showers graced us all day. We were soaked and cold. If we look at the situation optimistically, we did have lots of wind!  In just 7 hrs we had made it to Port Townsend, and tied up to the fuel dock for the night. In the morning after getting our slip, we wandered around the boatyard, chatting up nearly everyone we could find. One of those folks was Andy, one of the employees of Port Townsend Rigging.

Like all boaters, Andy could tell a story. Before long we were all back aboard Cinderella, beers in hand. Andy was telling us about the modifications he made to his boat, and made me aware that I should reconsider what I had done when I insulated the main cabin. He told me about how he added storage behind the settees in his boat. In doing so, he not only added insulation and storage, but also strength to the hull.

This sat in my mind for a while before I finally took the leap. I was going to take everything down and build out cabinets behind the port settee to give Cinderella even more rigidity and precious storage.

This became a larger project (shoscker) than I expected, but the end result is well worth it.

I began by taking all of the flooring down and pulling off all of the stringers I glued to the hull.

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The next steps took the majority of an evening. The port settee was designed to be slept on, not at at, it was much deeper than a normal seat. This allowed me to create plenty of storage behind the future seat-backs, but where would those seat-backs be? It is very challenging to draw a straight line in a boat, even more challenging to take that line and make a template to follow the curvature of a hull. I eventually decided that I needed 19″ for my seat, and the rest would be storage.

I then drew lines up the bulkheads at about 85 degrees to outline where the seat-back would eventually be. From here I was able to glue in my supports and begin cutting cardboard templates.

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Since the access to the storage below the settees did not allow for 19″ seats, I decided the bottom shelf would be 4″ off of the settee (the height of the cushions). I was fortunate I bought an electric carving knife for cutting foam because it works wonders on cardboard templates too. I proceeded to cut out templates for each piece I needed before cutting each piece out of 12mm plywood. At the local lumberyard they have 12mm finished birch plywood that seemed like the perfect choice.

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I kept going until I had each piece cut out an test fitted. Fortunately, you don’t need a perfect fit to the hull here. You actually want to leave about a 1/2″ gap to fill with foam so that the swelling of the wood won’t cause any pressure points on the hull and potentially create stress points.

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The next step was to cut the foam strips to fit the gap. I used polystyrene I had leftover for the initial insulation job, again the carving knife was invaluable. After the foam was glued in place, I made fillets out of thickened epoxy so that the fiberglass would have a gentile arc to adhere to rather than a sharp 90 degree bend. Finally, I was able to lay the fiberglass. I applied three layers with the first halfway between the hull and the plywood and the next two overlapping on either side.

 

Sailing the Wild West! SEA to BC for the Holidays

Part of wrapping up 2015 and before I kick in the mega-GYST2016 full throttle, just had to do one last thing. Sail. There was no way I could fully know what I was in for, but I didn’t care. I was ready to hit the seas with trusted Skipper Pajo Gazibara. Our vessel: an Ericson 35-2 named Cinderella, equipped with a cozy sleeping cabin, gas oven that rocks with the boat, and a diesel powered furnace to keep us nice and toasty!!! I was somewhat convinced and just had a few important conditions that I relayed to Pajo:

First, I requested he teach me to sail. I wanted to be able to hold my own if anything were to happen and how to support the captain if needed. I was to be, by default, the first mate. And oddly enough, no one else was down to join this magical journey in December, over the holidays in the Northwest. I had no experience in the art and technique of sailing. I felt it was a big deal and I had to be on my game.

Second, there needed to be a Christmas tree on board. I anticipated that being away from my family and friends for the holidays was going to be a little emotional for me so keeping the boat festive was important!

Third, if we made it up to the Desolation Sound, we would stop at Whaletown, translates to: “I WANNA SEE SOME FREAKIN WHALES!”
Honorable mention, a functional head.

Pajo agreed these were attainable conditions and set out to make the trip a reality.

Below I recount the details of our trip, from Lake Union to Hat Island to Victoria, the Gulf Islands, Vancouver and everything in between.

Dec. 20-21 // Seattle preparations

Preparations including grocery shopping, meal planning, provision procurement, cozying the cabin, building out the framework/flooring for the head, and engine repairs. After all the running around, scooping up a few engine parts, we were feeling ready for the SAIL!

Dec. 22 // Seattle to Hat Island & Everett

After a few stubborn attempts, the motor starts and sounds strong! Spirits are high as we set sail out of Lake Union. We have a super streamlined passage through Ballard and my first time at the Locks.

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Had solid winds and everything was going well as we round into Everett, but then… I took the helm as Pajo went to take the sails down, I noticed some gnarly smoke billowing out from the motor. I alerted Pajo and we immediately cut the ignition.

Shit.

We diverted over to Hat Island to anchor since navigating a narrow channel to port would have been a risky and tack-y process in the dark… next to a Naval station. Pajo thinks it’s best to anchor there to avoid that and assess the motor in the morning. We hunkered down around 7pm and got our shit totally rocked all night, rowdy waters and crazy winds felt like a storm. The chaos outside the boat was magnified inside the v-birth and made me super anxious and without sleep.

Pajo, sensing my uneasiness hugged me tightly and whispered “don’t worry, babe.” This helped, along with some extra curricular wave-like activities… As I lay there, tyring to tune out the forceful waves and wind, I kept visualizing the boat bobbing out of control and capsizing… or even uprooting the anchor and us drifting out to the channel. I said a little prayer to my grandma to look out for us. Super unlike me to ever pray but I felt like whatever was out there was way bigger than us.

We heard the jib flopping around on top of the boat and I convinced Pajo that we should go up and tie it down. It was dark and windy as all heck. My adrenaline levels running high as we wrastled the sail down and tidied the deck, bikes, kayak, ropes and sails. I felt better knowing that it wasn’t as gnarly as it seemed and was able to fall asleep in Pajo’s arms.

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Dec. 23rd // Everett

We wake up to calmer conditions and a hopeful glimpse at Everett across the way. An awesome egg scramble for breakfast and dropped the crab pots in hopes of a crabby breakfast. I get to chat with my sister in Brooklyn while Pajo calls for a tow from Boat US.

 

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The friendly Hat Island Ferry Captain Kurt came to our rescue in the vessel assist boat and we were towed safely back to Everett. Pajo paddled over to Ryan and Kathy’s boat to tow over a second kayak but, alas, our reason for coming to Everett was a bust. Turns out, it’s a great place to have your motor die.

Now to investigate the motor troubles. Pajo noticed the day before that water was leaking out of the elbow, pressure was building where it shouldn’t have. Pajo took the elbow off, we loaded the bike bag and went to have a little chat with the Harbor Marine guys.

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But first, a Porter and coconut prawn snack at Scuttlebutt Brewing Co.! We also picked up a 6-pack of the KEXP Transister IPA.
The Harbor Marine dudes were pretty great and helpful to our troubleshooting. We were even escorted back to their engine specialist in the back offices. Pajo had a lengthy back and forth with the stark fella, and they deduced that the motor was likely shot. Pajo stayed positive, as he does, and thought there were a few different things we ought to try. He purchased a new elbow and additional parts for the Yanmar. I absorb all the mechanical jargon, read their faces, then I start to feel reality setting in: maybe we won’t be heading to Canada afterall.

We certainly had some things to discuss… Pajo provides plan B options.
Like, go back and get the other boat in Leschi. That motor is strong, but that’s far and the trip would need to be more local…
Or, find a Yanmar tractor dealer in the neighborhood to build a franken-motor (apparently they are the same thing?!).

Either way, I was relieved that he considered my comfort level and asked for my input on moving the trip forward.

In the midst of all this, I asked if we can just sail on anyway, and we laughed, “this is a sailboat afterall!” Pajo’s concern was that he’s only sailed Cindy three times and wasn’t practiced on maneuvering motor-less docking.

Captain Kurt thought we were handling all of this pretty well considering. He also thought we were nuts.

“There are bold captains and there are old captains. Not a whole lotta both.” – Captain Kurt, Hat Island ferry

He offered us a tow the next day if we needed it and advised on the tide schedules.

Pajo discussed more with the Marine boys, one elder strongly urged us, “do not leave tonight, please! Just get a good night’s rest and leave in the morning.”

I sleep soundly thankful for my talkative, curious, thoughtful and knowledgeable sailing mate. That night I dreamt of the voyage to come and pushing for a Canadian Christmas!

Dec. 24 // Everett to Victoria, BC

Wake-up call 4am. Pajo raises the American flag and whips up a dank breakfast burrito. I’m totally crushing on this man as he unveils his experimental cooking side in our humble kitchen.
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We set out with the tide and watched the sunrise, spirits are high and bellies full. We learn that food and Dad-rock helps morale. We have to back track a bit down to Edmonds since without a motor, Deception Pass would be effing treacherous. Wind starts to fizzle as we sail through the Juan de Fuca strait and we contemplate heading down to Port Townsend or Port Angeles. Pajo had the spinnaker up for the first time so we could scoop up any and all gusts.

As we approached our turn off, we felt the wind shift up to around 7-8 knots. Pajo was blown away at the speed the boat could go. The wind would like us to carry on to Victoria. I made a Thai concoction with chicken and coconut rice with the oven that rocks with the boat, what a fun way to cook, bobbing around the cabin!
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We were making good speed as we rounded into the Victoria harbor, both sails up. Some re-con and Google maps led us to our customs doc to check into Canada. It was 11pm and we were a little exhausted and I was a bit irritable after our first super long day.

After tidying the boat and calling customs, we relaxed and realized, hey! It’s Christmas… in Canada! We held each other and snuggled down for an amazing sleep.

Dec. 25 // Christmas Day in Victoria, BC

The Customs dock was pretty weird, but since we got the okay to “Move freely about Canada, eh?” we decided that’s what we’ll do! After breakfast, Pajo made a call to the hotel that seemed to share the neighboring dock to find out we can post up there and whilst enjoying their lovely spa-like amenities: jacuzzi, sauna, pool, showers, plumbing. HECK YEAH SPA DAY!

Pajo kayaked to our post for the evening (about 60 feet from our dock) and we towed Cindy over to her parking spot. After a little dip in the rejuvenation chamber (sauna), I was feeling great! We set out to bike the city in search of sites and libations. Victoria has awesome capitol buildings and the architecture makes you feel like you’re in a European city. Everyone is friendly and there is a healthy transient community there of Brits and Kiwis.

We found an industrial part of town across the bridge on Government street with a few micro-breweries sprinkled in. All closed. I saw someone inside the Hoyne Brewing building and thought I’d try and catch ‘em. I knocked on the window and Mr. Hoyne himself came out to greet us. As he explained, in Canada, you need a separate permit to also serve at your brewery, this one did not have a tasting room. Hoyne was a helluva dude and gave us 3 bottles of beer as a Christmas gift!

We continued on, delighted with Victoria so far and thirsty for a beer. We got a hot tip that Swan’s was open so we rolled in for egg-nog and great convo with our chummy bar-tender from Manchester, UK / New Zealand. He was wearing the most festive shirt and hated Christmas. The pub was bustling and realized why he was in high spirits. We made a candy-cane garnish recommendation and continued on to Beacon Hill Park.

On the way, we passed through residential neighborhoods lined with cute houses, odd corner stores, families and dogs out walking in their oversized wool sweaters. There was a super cute little boat racing pond called Harrison Yacht Pond for R/C and model boats. Adorbs. We found a path to the water, peds only, walked our bikes to the edge and watched as the sun went down, we saw where we sailed in and reflected on our journey. We biked on in search of rumored pulled-pork poutine but everything else was closed. ALong the way we found a Polar bear and a First Nation Spirit Fountain in Centennial Square, part of Old Towne.
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We found another bar called The Sticky Wicket and adjacent bizzaro-world Big Bad John’s which was full of elders who were all drinking in silence. We had another egg-nog, this one extra boozy and tried to liven the place up a bit with the lovely bartender. Alas, that place was pretty dismal and so we tracked our next moves though and went home to have dinner and bake a Christmas cake to the tune of awesome Christmas songs. There certainly was lots of Christmas love in the air, we got very close that night as discussions went deep. Pajo made a Velveeta mac-n-cheese and brats creation as the Ghiradelli-covered rice flour cake baked. As we hunkered down to sleep, I whispered “ I will always remember this Christmas” and we drifted to sleep.
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Dec. 26 // Victoria to Fulford Harbor, Salt Spring Island, BC

Waves and winds at full force, we watched a yacht race rounding Discovery Island. These were easily the biggest waves we had ever seen aboard nearly ten feet! When we were in the trough we could no longer see the yachts racing. Unused to the waves, Pajo forgot to lash down the spinnaker and whisker pole. Poseidon’s treasures now. Good thing Cinderella came with 4 spinnakers…

We also saw the fastest speed we ever saw aboard Cinderella, we hit 12 kts briefly surfing down the waves with a poled out headsail.

Dec. 27 // Fulford Harbor to Ganges Harbor, Salt Spring Island, BC
Technology day! We took some time at a little cafe to connect with our world. I made sure my mom knew I was still alive out there and Pajo instgrams all of the photos.

Cafe snacks inclue an amazing almond chocolate bar, a sausage roll, cinnamon bun and all the coffee.

We quickly explore Fulford. What a cute little crunchy salty town. We do a little shopping for trinkets and FOOD. The best provisions yet: locally caught/smoked lox, creamy cream cheese, bread and Habenero mango jam that Pajo will talk about for years to come. Pajo chatted it up with the woman at the market (nothing new) and we set off for Ganges around 3pm.

It was a long trek around the island to it’s other port, the more industrious Ganges. A pathetic waft you might call a breeze turned a two mile sail into four wet, cold hours. We arrived in port around 7, super exhausted. Nap time. Although we had high aspirations for food and beers with locals, snuggling up under warm blankets took priority, let’s just nap for a couple hours… We overslept! Unfortunately, we missed any food service, but hey, we sure felt great in the morning.

Dec. 28 // Ganges Harbor

Well rested, we had a chance to explore the shops and sites in Ganges. The hardware store for bunjees and batteries, the bookstore for a sweet chart of the gulf islands and San Juans, and the grocery for yet more delicious snacks.
We even found a cute treehouse cafe with bomb bison chili and spicy boom boom shrimp. We love Canada.
Nothing puts a smile on Ava’s face quite like a Thrift store find, and boy did we score. Ava found a super cute dress for NYE in Vancouver and browsing the shops led us to meet some pretty rad older artist ladies (of course). Pajo snags some amazing shoes and two books “Just Cruising” and “Still Cruising…” about a family that circum-navs the world in a sailboat. Impeccable timing (and aptly named)  the start of Pajo’s year long campaign trail, but that’s another story…

Dec. 29 // …en route to Vancouver (a poem.)

crazy day.
no wind.
Seal island.
Isle o’ poo.
Land!
Kayak around the island and flirt with seals, bald eagles swoop and swirl.
Pajo naps.
Ava naps.

It was a wild last day of sailing from Salt Spring Island up through Porlier Pass. En route to the pass we sailed along several beautiful uninhabited islands. The wind became finicky and the current began to build against us. We were forced to row to an anchorage in a small, pristine bay. Seals were playing and barking around us, and Ava took the opportunity to kayak around the island, stopping ashore to use the… facilitrees.  Under sail the narrow gap between Valdez and Galliano Islands was a nail-biter. The wind remained fickle, it was very important that we entered the pass just as the current flipped. Too soon and we would be flushed out, too late and the current could put us on the rocks. Careful planning had us safely transitioning into the Salish Sea. Victory! Although we saw tons of wildlife at Seal Island in the December sun, the orcas were all hiding, but we could feel they were sneaking around.

The wind steadily grew as we crossed the Straight of Georgia, before long Cinderella was cruising along at 5-6 kts. As we barrelled through, we took shifts steering, cooking or heating up any warm liquids we could. We had keen eyes on rogue logs, a true sign we were sailing in the northwest!
Pajo took the opportunity to cook up a delicious pasta dinner, complete with appetizers. Ava was very pleased.

As the night drew on, we were crossing the Harrow Straight, and freighters kept us on edge. Rule of tonnage applies here, and we were over cautious. Pajo taught Ava how to heave-to, a skill she picked up all too well.

Dec. 30 // 3am arrival in Vancouver

Nearing our destination the winds continued to build. Although Cinderella does not have a functional anemometer, our guesstimate on wind-speed was 35+.  The sail was beginning to be a test of wills. First a reef, then a second, then we dropped the headsail, still Cinderella would not slow. The wind sounded like a freight train, the railing was well below the waterline, and all of the shrouds were whistling as we were bashing to windward under a double reefed main at a steady 7 kts. It was dark, and we were half-terrified half-exhilarated.

As quickly as the winds built, they ceased. It was as if someone flicked a light switch. As soon as we entered Vancouver Bay, no wind.

It was 1 in the morning, and all we wanted after that 12 hour roller coaster was sleep. No such luck. We still had to cross the bay that was scattered with giant oil tankers that blocked the little wind that there was. Two miles is a long way at 0 kts. Out again came the trusty kayak paddle. Ava wondered if she was absolutely insane for sailing with this guy after dating him for three months, in December. With no engine. She took out her stress on rowing the boat into port. Alas, a couple hours later we were exhausted, and safely at anchor.

Dec. 31 // NYE in Vancouver

After breakfast we realized that the sail the previous day had drained both of our batteries. We used what little battery we had left to call a Boat US for a tow into Vancouver. Again the wind was light, so rather than spend all day crossing a two mile bay, we decided to call for a tow. Are we glad we did! Rhys Davis of the Blue Flasher was a riot. Rhys was probably in his upper 60s and going strong. That man could tell a story. He had his boat, the Blue Flasher, built custom to his specs nearly 30 years prior. Even after being delivered safely to our dock, Rhys stuck around for another hour or so and we were rolling. The humor and stories of the boating community is something spectacular.

We were now safely in Vancouver, the madness was over… At least for Ava, I still had to sail back to Seattle! Fortunately I would take on fresh crew to handle the windless drift home.


“This trip has been amazing!!! Pajo and I worked really well as a team, I was confident in his abilities and gut feelings about making calls and keeping us safe. I learned a lot and definitely felt the immense power of the water and wind, what a FORCE. What we lacked in an engine and a proper toilet we made up for in a helluva fun trip and memories to last a lifetime.” – Ava

 

Newport Dickinson Heat Part 2

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About a month had gone by, and Ava and I had returned to the PNW after some traveling to visit my family in the Midwest. Contrary to my belief, it had actually gotten colder in Seattle. My little space heater was now working full time and could hardly keep the boat temp above 60. It was time to revisit that Diesel heater.

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If you recall I had left the project installed but not in working order. Ava and I went sailing through a gale to Port Townsend and while we made excellent time (averaged 7 kts!) we were nearly frozen to the bone upset that we had to rely on my little propane Mr. Buddy Heater. I now had a bit of inspiration, I once again revisited the diesel heater.

The first step to troubleshooting was to download the calibration procedure from the Dickinson website (find it here) and check to see if my valve was set properly.

The calibration can be tested by removing the copper pipe from the bottom of the valve assembly and allowing the diesel to drip directly into a measuring cup. Dickinson calls for the valve to fill 1 tsp over 50 seconds on setting 1.

Simple enough right? Wait! I don’t have measuring spoons. Just before my drive was diminished, I had and idea. To google!

As we may or may not know, silverware was originally designed to measure, you guessed it, the teaspoon and the tablespoon. It turns out, a normal spoon is approximately 1 Tbsp and a dessert spoon is approximately 1 tsp. Oh the magic of google. Unfortunately, in my minimalism I do not have any dessert spoons, so I would have to use a regular spoon.

Since there are 3 tsp in 1 Tbsp, I have two options, either eyeball what 1/3 of the spoon looks like, or wait 150 seconds and the full spoon should be full of diesel. (note: be sure to clean the spoon afterwards thoroughly). I chose to eyeball at the 50 sec mark. The less opportunity for diesel to spill in my cabin the better.

After all of this, I was able to determine my valve assembly was calibrated nearly perfectly, the plug must be further down the line.

I proceeded to the next step in the process, the copper pipe that connects the burner pot to the valve assembly. What do you know, it was completely plugged.

I should have spent the extra time when cleaning out the stove prior to installation to clean the pipe too, but it was cold when I was cleaning, and I lost motivation very quickly.  So simple, yet so frustrating.

After sacrificing half of a spiral bound notebook’s spiral, I was able to use the wire to clean out the pipe to reinstall. A few minutes later, I had it all back together.

I opened the valve to setting 1 and waited, sure enough there was enough fuel to prime the stove in 5 minutes. I lit the pool of diesel, and we were off. It took about 5 minutes to preheat  enough to vaporize the diesel, but the stove was working properly.

The stove now works, and I am no longer spending the occasional evening aboard in a puffy coat.

The Newport heater also happens to come with a built in 12v fan to force air into the burner pot. This allows the user to better control the burn. I like this feature, as the old sig 180 had limited burn range before inefficient combustion. I basically had to run it full blast or nothing (quite the waste of fuel).

I was eager to see what this fan could do! I wired it up and switched it on. Nothing.

I immediately assumed the switch had failed. A few minutes  with the handy dandy Fluke multi-meter, and I found the culprit.

The motor, after sitting in a marine environment for x years, had seized. The local Dickinson dealer proceeded to drop my jaw when they told me the replacement was $85!

Crafty as I am, and after my newfound knowledge of electric motors from the Manta Drive, I disassembled the tiny little fan motor and found out what was wrong. It turned out that one of the bushings had corroded after being in the environment for so long.

After a bit of fine sandpaper and a dab of winch lube, I had the motor was spinning free once again. The best part, I still had that $85 in my pocket!

It turns out the fan really helps get the burner lit, and aids in combustion of the flame. Something was still up though, the flame seemed to hesitate every now and then.

Oh well, it works, and I am now sweating in my t-shirt aboardin these cold nights.

We had some guests over, and decided to go out for an evening sail. Everything started out great. Light breeze coming from the sound, a nice slowsail towards downtown.

The wind was nearly directly behind us. It was pleasant. As we came about to circle around the lake, I see smoke! Saing to windward caused a back-draft that killed the flame in the burner pot! This would not do for distance sailing.

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Still not happy, I have some ideas on how to make my setup better.

Follow along for Dickinson Heat Part 3 – I add a barometric damper and fiberglass a pad for the chimney to sit on.

 

My Experience with EV – Part 6A Motor Mount Mods

As of my last post, my plan was to mount my electric motor below the floorboards to open up the cabin layout. This would allow me to better utilize the space within the boat for living aboard. This dream was FOILED!

Here is what happened.

After I mounted the sprocket on the motor and bolted it to the CV joint I quickly learned that the motor would not fit below the floorboard! Earlier when I had tried it, I did not have to motor attached to the CV joint, and once I did, the motor would no longer fit. I tried rotating it, I tried moving it around, no dice. There was one angle that would allow it to fit, but it proposed several more issues that I was not willing to deal with.

  1. The motor would not be aligned well, this would translate to excess wear on both the motor and the CV joint and excessive noise.
  2. The poles of the motor would be VERY close to the floorboard, being that the floorboard was intended to be aluminum plate, that could translate to a 48V electric floor.
  3. The mount would be a challenge to fabricate, and the motor would be very challenging to install and remove. Having worked on several older cars thinking “why did they put that there, don’t they know it may need servicing one day?”  made me realize that It was not a good idea.

Back to the drawing board, this was frustrating, I had a self imposed timeline that I would not meet, and one last Duck Dodge that I would not make prior to leaving for a work trip to Australia for a month. But the ever optamist that I am, I quickly changed gears and came up with a new solution. The motor would now mount below the entry steps, and spin the propeller shaft by way of pulleys.

There were a few advantages to this setup, so all in all, it was not a loss.

  1. The battery poles were no longer close to the floorboards, and did not create a case for an electric floor.
  2. The mount would be easier to create, and would allow for some flexibility in assembly/removal.
  3. Now that I was no longer running a direct drive, I could play with pulley sizes to get a more ideal RPM at the propeller (though there will be loss in the system due to the belt).
  4. The motor would no longer be in the bilge – no more risk of submerged electric system.
  5. It would force me to learn another piece of the boat that I was scared of – propeller shaft packing.

The new plan:

I was going to fiberglass in some wood pieces between the floor and the hull vertically. To these mounts I would bolt two short pieces of angle, and across the top, I would bolt a piece of aluminum plate. In the plate, I would use bolts to make adjustable motor mounts so that I could easily tighten/loosen the belt and properly align the motor.

In order to make it work, I would first have to remove the transmission coupling from the propeller shaft so that I could put the new pulley directly on the propeller shaft. According to the forums, this can be a daunting task that may include cutting my propeller shaft!

I decided to start with what I knew, I cut 4 pieces for wood to fit between the floor and the hull and sealed the wood with epoxy. After the epoxy cured, I glued the wood to the hull and the floor, and screwed them to the floor.

Once the glue cured, I came back across with fiberglass matte to make the mounts rock solid. Pro tip – cut the fiberglass matte to manageable sizes, and wet it out on wax paper before applying to the area. A good reference for this is a video from the folks as Sailing Uma found here. It is very important to completely wet out the fiberglass matte. Fiberglass has this uncanny ability to wick moisture into the entire matte from a single strand of dry exposed fiberglass. Since this mount is below the floorboards, there is a slight chance of moisture, and I don’t want my motor breaking the mounts free.

Now, onto that propeller shaft. Before I started disassembly, I had to first educate myself on how they work, how they are assembled, and what I needed to watch out for.

YouTube turned out to be the best source of information, and this video turned out to be very useful in giving me an understanding on how/why they work, and how they are assembled. The forums were filled with horror stories about how difficult the are to disassemble and how most people just end up cutting the shaft and starting fresh – an option I was not too keen on.

After some search, I came up with a plan to remove the coupling. First step was to remove the set screws on the caliper and loosen the hose clamp backup. Then I would pry the shaft apart from the CV joint and insert and socket between the coupling and the CV joint. I would then tighten the coupling and CV join back together and the socket would press the shaft out. This process worked like a charm, but was a serious PITA and took a couple hours, a video of my efforts can be found here. After getting the coupling off, I sanded off the rust and slid the new pulley on the shaft and reassembled. The reassembly was straightforward, but light sanding was required on both the shaft and the coupling.

Back to the motor mounts, I went on a hunt for some aluminum angle and plate. I ended up in South Seattle at a scrap yard where I was able to buy the angle cut to size along with the plate for a less than $10! Unfortunately, the angle was steel and the plate was aluminum, left to their own devices the two dissimilar metals would undergo galvanic corrosion, essentially eating each-other away. To combat this, a coat of paint and epoxy was used.

I took extra precaution against the corrosion, and cut up an old mouse pad to place between the two metals as a “rubber spacer.”

I screwed the steel angle to the fiberglass mounts I made with 8 hearty stainless steel screws and the mount was rock solid. After the plate was bolted down, I set the motor on top to mock up the mount and size the belt I would need.

I needed a 28″ B series belt, which I sourced from O’Riely for $11. The end result looked something like this:

 

Woohooo! The motor is mounted, time to make those electric connections!

Follow along for My Experience with EV – Part 6B for the end result of the motor mounts.