Most blogs you read about sailing in Mexico describe the amazing things there are to see and why it’s worth spending a few seasons there.
This is about the sailing experience.
In the Sea of Cortez, the wind either doesn’t blow at all, or it blows like crazy from exactly where you want to go. In the lulls you drift aimlessly in circles, listening to sails flog. When the Norte blows, you have 30+ kts on your nose and it’s a bashingly numbing ride. For about 4 hours a day, you have perfect sailing conditions. Just time it with the tides…
What I’m saying is, it’s a motor boater’s paradise.
The first major city heading north, La Paz, even closes their harbor when they see 15kts of breeze from the North. 15 kts!! No boats are allowed in or out. I don’t think the weekly regatta has been allowed out to sail once with a decent breeze. Quite a different vibe compared to the race boats in Santa Cruz that come screaming back into harbor under big powerful kites in all but treacherous conditions.
The Sea is amazingly beautiful, Jacques Cousteau fittingly described it as ‘The aquarium of the world,” and It’s absolutely worth every minute you spend there exploring. We swam with sea lions and floated over schools of vibrant tropical fish. We ate delicious fresh ceviche, fish tacos and sashimi all from a few hooks hanging over the stern. We love it here in Mexico.
Ask almost anyone who participated in the 2018 Baja Haha how many hours their motors were running when they were up in the Sea. That should give you an idea of what it’s like to sail here.
The sailing itself, sucks.
We attempted sailing North in both a Norte and without a Norte. Both are trying.
A Norte is a strong northerly wind that seems to occur once every week or so and last a few days during winter months. Sometimes they occur back to back and they last for nearly a week. If a Norte is blowing, expect square 6-8’ waves to build, as the fetch from the Northern Sea is nearly 400 miles. That mass of water moving south also tends to push a sizable current.
In the Norte, you are taking hundreds of gallons of water over the bow and watching your tacking angles get worse and worse. But hey, there is wind! The trouble is trying to sleep when you are getting air in your berth as the boat pounds away.
When the Norte doesn’t blow, all predictions are off. Sometimes the wind is blowing from the south, sometimes the west, sometimes the east, but never over 10 kts (on rare occasion you might see 15). Expect lots of lulls and lots of drifting.
While we were here, we did not find any wind prediction software to be accurate, nor the charts for that matter. We tried PredictWind, Sailflow, Windy, and NOAA’s GRIBs, but none of them were accurate when a Norte wasn’t blowing.
All of the tall volcanic islands and hills in the area seem to confuse the fickle winds and make prediction difficult.
Our trick was to wait until well after the Norte shut off and use a honed skill of… looking out the window.
When the light wind starts to blow in the early afternoon, we would weigh anchor and ride the puffs North. Ideally we landed in any of the hundreds of majestical, calm anchorages before the wind shut off for the night.
If we timed it right, there wasn’t any swell, and we would be hunkered down in an amazing anchorage while the Norte kicked up for a few days. After things chill out, you can weigh anchor and keep going… slowly.
If you have a typical “cruising boat” that is heavy and doesn’t point high, expect to fill those diesel tanks often!
Fortunately for us, Cinderella is a great light wind performer, and though wet, she can pound her way to weather if need be.
Either way, actually sailing in the Sea of Cortez, as with anywhere patience is key, and schedules will make life painful.
Expect to develop monk-like patience here if you attempt to experience the Sea under sail as daily passages tend to be roughly one third to one quarter the mileage you experienced coming down the West coast. For instance, 20 miles may take you all day. But don’t worry, there are plenty of perfect beaches to help you find heart’s center.
Don’t let the sailing discourage you, it is trying, but the experience here more than makes up for it. We wish we had more time to stick around and spend a few seasons really exploring.